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by Jesús Zabala - 5 min read

How to Make Rings With Stones

In recent years, rings with stones have become increasingly popular. This comes as no surprise because this jewelry piece leaves a bold statement. We will show you how to make rings with stones as we are sure that you will enjoy wearing them.

How to Make Rings With Stones?

Selecting the right stone

The first and most important step is to choose the right stone. This is a crucial step since the stone you wear represents you and your personality. It is said that you wear the accessories you like with more confidence than those you do not like that much.

To select the right stone, we advise you to consider the gemstone’s types and properties, and your intended use.

How to Make Rings with Stones
Source: shutterstock.com / Photo Contributor: Pixel-Shot

Types of gemstones

  • Precious stones (top tier) - this group includes diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, known for their rarity, shine, and durability.
  • Semi-precious stones - amethyst, agate, quartz, topaz, and garnet are affordable and versatile, offering many colors and patterns.
  • Organic gemstones - pearl, amber, and coral are unique and distinctive and add a touch of nature to designs.

Gemstone properties

  • Hardness - measures a stone’s resistance to screeching. Mohs scale ranges from 1 (softest) to 10 (hardest).
  • Refractive index - determines how much light bends when passing through the stone, affecting its brilliance.
  • Clarity - refers to the presence or absence of inclusions and imperfections. Higher clarity results in more brilliant and valuable stones.
  • Color - gemstones come in a vast array, which can complement the ring’s design.

Choosing a stone

  • Intended use - consider the durability and scratch resistance of the stone based on where and when you plan to wear your ring; whether it is for daily wear or special occasions.
  • Personal preference - choose a stone that suits your style and gemstone and color preference.
  • Symbolism and meaning - since gemstones are related to certain meanings, you can choose the one with a special significance for you.

Gathering the materials and tools

Making rings with stones requires several materials and tools. While the most common metals for rings are gold, silver, platinum, and palladium, you should choose the metal based on your budget, color, and durability. 

Decide what gemstone you want to attach to your ring. You should choose the type, size, and shape of the gemstone. To join all the components together, you will need a metal alloy called solder. You will also need a flux, which is a component that binds the metal pieces together during the soldering process. 

Then, you will need a saw to cut and shape the metal for the ring. To shape and texture the metal, you will need a ball-peen and chasing hammers. Next on your list should be the soldering set, which includes a torch, soldering block, and heat-resistance surface for the soldering process. Then, you need to smooth and shape the metal with files.

At the end, you can use the polishing wheels, buffs, and a rotary tool to polish the ring. One last thing you will need is the measuring tools, like calipers, ring mandrel, and a ruler for measuring and sizing the ring.

Designing the Ring

When it comes to designing the ring, the instructions depend on the model you wish to create. Yet, the first step in making a ring with stone is creating the piece you want to wear. That is why we recommend you consider the style, the metal type, and the stone you want to use. Moreover, you should consider your ring size and how you want to place the ring. We advise you to use computer software to create a 3D model of the ring to get a precise idea of how your ring will look like.

Designing the Ring
Source: shutterstock.com / Photo Contributor: New Africa

Preparing the Stone and Setting

After having your design, the next step you should focus on is preparing the stone.

Cleaning and inspecting the stone

We advise cleaning the stone to remove dirt, oil, or residue. The best method is to use a soft brush, mild soap, and water solution. Avoid using chemicals that can damage the stone. It is also important to inspect the stone for cracks or chips.

Resizing or adjusting the ring setting

If you are using an existing ring, you may need to resize or adjust it to place the stone properly. You can do this with several methods, including stretching, shrinking, or soldering.

Creating prongs or a bezel to secure the stone

Depending on the design, you may need to create prongs or a bezel to secure the stone. Prongs are small metal pieces that hold the stone, while a bezel is a metal rim that surrounds the stone.

Techniques for setting the stone securely

One common setting is the claw setting, in which prongs are rounded over the top of the stone to hold it in place. The second option is the bezel setting, in which the stone is wrapped around. Finally, you can combine these two methods for even greater stability.

Fabricating the Band

When you finish preparing the stone, you can start fabricating the ring.

  • Choose the metal - select the metal for your ring band, like gold, silver, or platinum. Consider the color, durability, and metal cost when making your choice.
  • Shape the band - use metalsmithing techniques, like hammering, bending, and soldering, to shape the band. If you are creating a custom band, you may need to start with a flat metal sheet or wire and form it into the desired shape and size.
  • Finish the band - finish the band by filling and polishing the metal to the desired texture and shine. You can also add decorative elements, like engravings, to the band.

Assembling and Finishing

The final step is to assemble the ring and add the finishing touches. You first attach the stone to the ring using prongs or bezels. Once the stone is set, use pliers or tools to bend and shape the prongs or bezels so that they securely hold the stone. Finish the ring by adding final touches, like polishing the metal or applying a protective coating.

Assembling and Finishing

Source: shutterstock.com / Photo Contributor: Jan Faukner

Conclusion

If these tips have helped you learn how to make rings with stones, then you should start designing your dream ring with stone. 

Remember that the first step is choosing the right stone, considering several factors, such as types of gemstones and properties. To design and start working on the ring, you need to take the necessary materials to make the sketch a reality.

So, how to set a stone in a ring at home? You should apply one of the prongs or bezel techniques to fix the stone to the ring. When the ring is complete and the stone is attached, just polish it, and voila, you’ve got yourself a brand-new ring.

Jesús  is the founder and designer of JewelryLab. He is the Head of Design and also oversees production, quality control, and precious metal sourcing.

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